Sunday morning I want/hope to be in the ocean before first light. mm, yes yes. That… is a good plan.
Sometimes, post surf, still dripping salt water, standing half naked in the sun and wind, among the eucalyptus and agave and flocks of shorebirds, next to open fields and cliffs above wrack-strewn beaches, feeling altogether naked and lanky and pleasantly exposed, connected to the elements, life seems to make sense.
Incredible morning. Up early for the surf check with Tris. Cliff chat with my favorite local & environmental restoration expert, Dave Hubbard, replete with excellent local weather pattern knowledge-pass-on re typical sky movement pre-storm between here and SoCal (that orange on the horizon to the west? that’s LA’s smog being drawn north by the southern high pressure rushing north into the approaching low). Saw my first ever Black Turnstones on the beach, walking out with the Homeless Guy under my arm. Tris taught me the word virga (google image it) under an incredible sky of nike swooshes and a huge virga like a hole melted out of the sky above a dark, smeared ‘V’. Perfect vis water below, standing tall on the small waves, and just watching the rocky bottom slide by. Sitting outside, waiting and watching, no more than fifteen feet from Tris, a Brown Pelican, whooosh!, threaded the needle, it’s huge wingspan seeming to take up most of the distance between us. Could hear it’s feathers clearly. I caught a little blip, and, kicking out, looked back to see a big Bottlenose with ragged-edged dorsal fin surface and dive right next to Tris. Another blip, a Harbor Seal hanging out with Tris. I feel plugged-in, I feel like I’m catching some rhythm, some timing and flow. It’s been a while. I’m flushing the sweetwater out of my veins. I want salt and kelp inside me.
Anonymous asked: Do you have any pictures of yourself??
Hiya : )
Sun dogs, mackerel skies, and a beautiful sunset from the water in one of the most beautiful places I know of.
Nice night “surf” last night, but where are the waves? Kinda needing some actual face time. Manana looks like it has potential for a good dawn patrol, some time for the wettie to dry, and then a sunset or night surf— cross your fingers for us CA water folks. Grazie!